Billet vacuum block, vacuum block gasket, lines, Brake Pedal Conversion Kit Vacuum / Hydroboost / Power Master. Please note Vacuum filter is now an obsolete discontinued part and no longer available.
Parts Needed:
Master Cylinder
Vacuum assist canister
Your existing brake pedal and bracket
Brake Pedal Conversion Kit Vacuum / Hydroboost / Power Master
Check valve
large vacuum hose
Electrical tape
Brake fluid ~ 1 gallon.
PROCEDURE
Place the vehicle in a suitable work area, you will have to raise up your car to bleed the brakes, so do this on a level, safe area.
It takes about 1.5 hours to remove the old pedal and power master.
1. Remove the Positive + Red battery cable! ! ! ! !
2. Using the turkey baster, pump, or short piece of hose to drain as much of the old brake fluid out of the power master as you can. It will keep the inside of your turbo Buick and the paint looking better, longer.
3. Removal of the brake pedal is tricky.
a. Lay the driver's seat down in recline mode.
b. Your head will rest on the floor looking up under the dash, try to keep your feet off the headliner! Using needle nose, duckbills or pliers, remove the clip that retains the slug master piston shaft to the pedal
c. Use of an air ratchet makes it easy to loosen the pedal pivot bolt, use an 11/16" short socket.
d. Use a 5/8 open-end the other end from turning.
e. When the pedal comes out, there will be a number of parts to locate. The bolt and nut, two plastic bearing inserts as well as a piece of tubing that fits between the plastic bearing inserts and the pedal assembly.
4. you may have to disconnect the speedometer cable at the joint right under the power master.
5. After the powermaster, there is an adapter that must also be removed from the firewall. It has four mounting nuts (15mm) that must be removed from inside, way up under the dash. Use a 15mm deep socket and a 12" extension and use a flexible joint (3/8 drive). With air tools, about 3-4 minutes and you will have all of them on the floor.
6. Dress all of the wires, hoses etc away from the opening to install the new Vacuum non-turbo master cylinder and booster.
7. The booster mounting nuts must be re-installed from the inside with the same tools used to remove in step 2.
8. There was no requirement for any adapters etc..
9. Don't forget to re-connect the speedometer cable.
10. Put the pedal with the new stud in the same manner that the original one came out. The new pin should be drilled 1 and 1/8" above the exsisting pin. (Hint) Put the bushing and plastic bearings in the brake pedal assembly. Wrap a piece of masking tape around the pedal and over the end pieces to keep it all together so the loose bushings will not fall out when you try to maneuver it into place it up under the dash. BEFORE you attempt to re-install, take your knife and pierce the tape through the center of the bushing holes and carefully slide the bolt through the tape. If you do it right, you will have tiny pieces of tape holding the bushings in while not obstructing the bolt hole. This makes installing the pedal a piece of cake.
11. Put the Push ROD from the booster onto the stud on the newly installed pedal. Re-install the clip.
12. Connect up the vacuum source. Your new vacuum Block ( TTA style ) It has been suggested that you use small hose clamps (#4 I think) to prevent engine boost from blowing off the lines. I recommend you change the PVC valve while you are at it.
13. Take appropriate action with your brake fluid, refill, bleed etc if required.
14. Gbodyparts.com Will give you $75.00 for your powermaster unit or $100.00 store credit on file whichever you prefer.
Payable upon receipt must be complete. Send tracking # to sales@gbodyparts.com and credit will be issued.
